We began today at the bottom of a large canyon, only a 50 mile climb would get us to the remote town of Hanksville (pop 200) where we could fill up on water and food. Having made Hanksville in the early afternoon we bought supplies from a lady who announced ‘when my husband passes a cyclist he plays a game to see how close he can get’. We didn’t stay long.
Refreshed, we set off following the Fremont river which marked the beginning of another steep 70 mile climb that we would now follow for the next 24hrs. Beginning to see what the Utah welcoming sign meant by ‘life elevated’.
Following the meandering river deep beneath the canyon tops as the sun slowly set was an incredible end to a long day of incline. The deep blue river, mixed green and autumnal orange tress against red rock and a darkening purple sky were magnificent.
We made it to a state campsite just after dark, bumping into a pair of young american cyclists we’d met some days before. Moments later we were all turfed out and sent on our way as the most miserable and hostile ranger in the history of humankind was not happy for us vagabonds to camp on state ground. All we required was to put a mat down and fall asleep, but to do this on state land would be considered trespassing. They do like having a lot of rules in the USA and this one seemed to be his favourite.
It would be a further 10 mile climb before we got to BLM land (Bureau of Land Management) and finally pitched our tent freely at 10.30pm, tired, hungry and annoyed. I told the ranger he was the worst American i had met in 2.5 months, on learning they have the same rights as police officers I was glad to of left it there.
I wish it didn’t say that on my pannier cover.
My little campsite.